The International Cessna^® 170 Association

Well I know one thing for sure. You must have a dampened crank in order to be eligible for the 35 amp generator. Whether or not there is or is not a D in the serial number.

Bruce said it best.

The point I was trying to make is that the O-300-D model, although likely eligible for 35A gens, is not the only one. I was only trying to insure that no one thought that particular "D" was the determining factor.

If one wished to install a fuel valve drain in place of the plug, why wouldn't one just purchase one of the SAF-AIR drain valves from Spruce or others and install it for about $15.00 and make a logbook entry rather than pay $50.00 to C-Mod supplier?

170C wrote:If one wished to install a fuel valve drain in place of the plug, why wouldn't one just purchase one of the SAF-AIR drain valves from Spruce or others and install it for about $15.00 and make a logbook entry rather than pay $50.00 to C-Mod supplier?

You could do just that so long as the licensed mechanic signing it agrees. Otherwise you can buy the STC. BTW I bought my two STCs and valves for $25 on ebay some time back. I thought the few extra dollars for the STC was nice even though the STC did not apply to either of the 170s I was going to install them on.

The STC only covers 170B models (but won't work on the first 30 or so that came with the early fuel shut off)

delete

My opinion as a dedicated bootlegger is that this drain valve on the selector valve is a nothing modification, and when I did it twenty years ago, I didn't feel that a log book entry was worth the time it took to write it. KISS is the watch word.
If you're really dedicated and apply yourself without reservation, you can make owning a classic old airplane a complicated proposition that will make certain types of people warm and fuzzy.

bigrenna wrote:Great replies thus far. ...I'm interested in real feedback....Greg-

I don't know what you mean by "real feedback". (I think everyone's been up-front in this discussion... I have the impression we're being "stroked" here....) But, I think a really useful mod (and one you may have missed the import of) is the disabling of the parking brake.

As for "anything else" ...I especially like the trailing-edge "bulb" on flaps. And circuit-breaker replacements of fuses!

one of my best mods including most if not all of the above mentioned, was removing the rear bench seat and replacing it with a early 180 seat that I cut in half.I wished that I would have taken pics of the process as it was a really simple thing to do. It has very little padding but is still comfortable for that third person, and makes removing it simple. loading and unloading all the gear is easy as well, total weight is under 10 lbs. Bill

CFZXO 180hp 55170B

Aryana wrote:

gahorn wrote: ...I especially like the trailing-edge "bulb" on flaps.

.... Do I need to get one off a donor plane or can I fabricate one myself? This will be a one time 337 field approval, right?
....

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... flapte.php

The easiest way probably is to drill all the trailling edge rivets out, then insert the bulb, drill it, and use a rivet squeezer. Be careful to keep the trailing edge aligned (hopefully with the fuselage shoulder vs the inboard-end of the aileron.) If you don't remove any rivets except T.E. it shouldn't want to shift too badly. (As for documentation...this is one of those that are "in the eye of the beholder"....a 337 is good, but (this is a Cessna part, Spruce states "STC-PMA approved" whatever that means) some relegate this to be minor. Mine was done during complete flap rebuild by a CRS and documented on 337.

Until you get this done, and even-after, to save your hair-do....go down to the Depot (or plumbing supply) and get yourself a couple of tubes of 3/4" foam pipe-insulation which is split on one side (so as to slip over pipes to keep them from freezing.) Slip them onto your trailing edges when you put the bird away at night.

Don't get the ones which are pre-glued....you want the UN-glued, cheap ones.


(Hint: Carrying these around on trips are a perfect reason to get an extended baggage mod...as this must have been what they were thinking about when they mention its weight-limitations.)

I think there are several categories of 'mods' being discussed here.
Some of the mods are for convenience (tail pull handles, baggage door, heat...) and others are safety due to age (solid axles, wiring...) and yet others are just plain safety ( Parking brakes, shoulder harnesses).

Example: I would not spend a cent on tailpull handles until I installed shoulder harnesses and at LEAST checked my axles for corrosion and verified my wiring was still safe.
I'd also spend a lot of time with the parking brake either removing all components of it or making sure it works EXACTLY AND ALWAYS (difficult) as designed before I did any of these. As a person who has set the brake in a crosswind landing, I can tell you it's no fun. Luckily, it wasn't completely set and I had enough rudder and brake to keep the plane straight.

Just a thought. I don't know if I'd use the popularity of items in this thread as a way to prioritize improvements to your plane.

gahorn wrote: ... Spruce states "STC-PMA approved" whatever that means ...

Air Metal Fabricators hold the STC for this modification. You'll find Karl Anderson extremely helpful. Here's a link to my installation.

The problem with hollow aluminum axles is not corrosion. It's sudden failure due to machining stresses during mfr.
The problem with parking brakes is not that they must work as intended. It's that they may be accidentally and unkowningly set by rudder application, especially in gusty x-winds. The only fix is complete removal of the orginal master-cylinder-lever-locking types. (Installation of a different type system is a different subject.)

Since the thread has gone beyond the "Best Three Mods" to any mods, I'll throw out some more that I like:

More mods:

Best 3 mods? depends on who you are and what you want to do.

Favorite 3? here are mine.

Shoulder belts shouldn't be on the list because you all should have them by now. (The fuzz made that one easy, it will save your noggin, just do it)


the tail pull handle is the best bang for the buck. I use it every single time I fly and it didnt cost much for an airplane part and the installation was easy.
the baggage door is pretty darn useful, especially with my battery in the back.

and on a grander scale, I do like my IO-360