Securing rudder when tied down outside

[rnealon1]

Rudder Gust Lock 3.jpg

Rudder Gust Lock 2.jpg

Rudder Gust Lock.jpg

Finally got around to making this. Created a makeshift fid with a metal punch and tape. Seems to work great.

[GAHorn]

Success! LOL

Yes, the 170 is a challenge when it comes to securing the rudder. If you walk around the flight line you can usually find a 170 (or similar type) with damaged rudders and rudder-bellcranks where they've been beaten against the stops. Using the top of the rudder to slip a "pad" between the rudder counter-balance/horn and vertical stabilizer is another sure-fire method to KILL the rudder, because a wind gust will bend the rudder counterbalance.

Glad to see your Success! Congratulations!

[KFS1998]

I came across this gem on Ebay. I wont be able to fit it until i buy the airplane but for now its safely stored in my treasure box.

Has anyone seen this before?

[hilltop170]

I had a Cub with a stick control lock similar to that.

[KFS1998]

This appears to go between the rudder bellcrank and the top portion of the tailwheel. We’ll see.

[GAHorn]

The series “6” PN leads me to believe this is for an L19/O1 BirdDog. Maybe slips over the stick and against the rudder pedals.

[n2582d]

Screen Shot 2021-02-11 at 11.10.36 AM.png

p/n is 1600101-1
Now you just have to figure out how to convert the 170 from a control wheel to a stick. That would be a cool STC!

[GAHorn]

Screen Shot 2021-02-11 at 11.10.36 AM.png

p/n is 1600101-1
Now you just have to figure out how to convert the 170 from a control wheel to a stick. That would be a cool STC!

That’s an “8” series PN drawing which applies to the Agwagon.

[TFA170]

Now you just have to figure out how to convert the 170 from a control wheel to a stick. That would be a cool STC!

I'd buy it in a heartbeat! About the only improvement you could possibly make...other than a bigger engine.

[reecewallace]

I just made one and it works great. Local shoe repair store took the outline I got from this site and made one, $12

Thanks for the tips and outline!

[IA DPE]

Now you just have to figure out how to convert the 170 from a control wheel to a stick. That would be a cool STC!

I find aircraft with Sticks much harder to enter/ egress and love the 170 for their ease of doing both.

Flying a Cub/ Super Cub/ Champ are fun but getting in/ out is gymnastics. I'm too old.

[4583C]

Now you just have to figure out how to convert the 170 from a control wheel to a stick. That would be a cool STC!

I find aircraft with Sticks much harder to enter/ egress and love the 170 for their ease of doing both.

Flying a Cub/ Super Cub/ Champ are fun but getting in/ out is gymnastics. I'm too old.

Agreed!! I did my flight review in a Super Cub last spring and it convinced me of the wisdom you expressed.

[Karl Towle]

I thought some may be interested in a solution I came up with. Maybe someone can improve upon it. Here's the picture:

20210328_155707[1].jpg

Specs:
1) Locks both rudder and elevator, at their trailing edges, while also cradling the aft 10" of each surface at a rib.
2) Eliminates stresses on control system.
3) Cradles the rudder just above the position light, so will also work with tailBeacon equipped aircraft.
4) Lighter weight than PVC based designs.
5) Padding is cheap and easily replaced plumbing insulation available from most hardware/plumbing sources.
6) Positively held in place by dual, redundant bungee straps.
7) If one forgets to remove, the lack of tailwheel steering should make the oversight obvious to the pilot while attempting to taxi.
8] Can be disassembled and collapsed for storage (total weight: 3.5 lbs including bungee straps.)

This will NOT fit the 170 or 170A without design modification.

[170behr]

Bruce's leather print out is working out well for me.
I used a Veg-Tan Craft Cut (8-9oz / 3.2-3.6mm) (12in x 12in) by Tandy Leather and used their punch and box cutter in store at their craft table to cut the shape out (the side holes are 1/2in for correct punch selection).
I purchased Fiebing Snow Proof Paste at Tandy Leather as well. I applied two coats at the hangar by lathering one side at a time and applying heat via a heat gun until it was absorbed.
I finished the piece with a 1/2 grommet kit I found on Amazon by Cridoz. They have not failed me yet and seem to protect the side holes well.
I use bungies on my set up.
The whole piece has held up well to the Washington rainy/ windy winter weather.

For my friends that have a uAvioni ADS-B Out Tail Beacon, I modified Bruce's print out to add a half inch extension towards the right side hole. Install the leather strap in the vertical position to get over the Tail Beacon and then rotate horizontal to perform its rudder lock duty.

IMG_5124.jpg

Eric

[GAHorn]

I took the vinyl-coated hooks off a bungee cord, and threaded some braided polypropylene rope thru them...Another short piece of the rope is inserted in the mid-point forming a small "bra", so that... a hook is placed into each end of the horiz stabilizer.

I have attempted to make one of these for my 170A and have succeeded for the most part. Problem is, on my A model and my hangar-mate's '48 170, both of our horizontal stabilizers lack the gap in the end rib through which this photo depicts the hook going through. Has anyone else made some sort of adaptation to still use this setup? I was thinking of trying to fabricate a bracket that would wrap around the leading edge and outboard side of the rib with a tab extending out to capture the hook. But if someone else has already developed something they'd be willing to share...?

Josh, have you looked at using the outboard elevator hinge area?