The International Cessna^® 170 Association

Just had a thought that there might be something about grounding a plane that I might not be aware of. I have been thinking that I would get a piece of 3 foot cable and put clamps on each end to make a static ground cord like the one's we use here at work. That way I wouldn't have to use or rely on 40 ft of usually twisted, kinked, dirty, ground cord, wound up on a not working very well motorized reel, when refueling.
There's no problem with simply grounding the nozzle handle straight to the gas tank neck, is there? That would prevent static electricity from the flow of fluid between nozzle and tank.
Is there anything with the plane building up electrcity in flight? Wouldn't it be grounded when the tires touch the ground?
Traveling with a portable plastic or metal gas can? What are the dangers in this? A plastic can cannot be grounded. Is it safe to carry a 5 gal metal can, making sure to ground it, when transferring gas? Touching metal to metal at least. For double saftey I always touch nozzle to tank neck anyway, being careful not to rest the weight of the nozzle & hose on the neck thus stressing it.

If you were talking about carring gas cans in the airplane ... there's a whole 'nuther set of concerns besides just grounding stuff. Did I misunderstand you?

Run with it!
What is the procedure for transporting a 5 gal can of gas?
I've seen a lot of gas flown into the Bush!

AR Dave

My proceedure is to fill the cans, load in airplane, and TIE THEM DOWN.

Then hope for the best. I don't like doing it but sometimes it's the only way.

My latest method is to use 15 gal poly drums and a empty 5 gal jug and siphon hose for transport. The drums have a O ring seal and don't leak. To use I siphon 5 gal into the jug two times, then pour from the drum when it is light enough to handle. I use one of the new water seperator funnels instead of a chamois as it dries faster. I maintain contact with the plane skin at all times while pouring, the funnel, though a plastic, has a conductor built in. I set the jug or drum on the top of the wing or cabin and pour till it touches the funnel then maintain contact with the funnel till emty. Each drum holds 90 lbs fuel so two equal a husky man so have to load accordingly. Hope this helps.

Where did you purchase the water trapping funnel? Have looked for one, but cannot find them.

Joe, Try Aircraft Spruce page 161 or online under "airframe parts-fuel systems-supplies" on page 3 of 4.

Walt

A simple method to trap water in a funnel is to lay a clean piece of felt inside it. An old hat works well. Marine stores also carry them. Try West Marine's model 1933233 10"H by 8.5" W for $28. Online catalog at: http://godiva.geoserve.com/forms/Westmarine.htm

AR Dave,
I'm just curious, where are you planning to go that you'd need to carry fuel like this? You goin' outside the lower 48?

I believe Roesbery was refering to the "Mr. Funnel" line of funnels that filters solids down to 0.005" and traps free water. It is also electrically conductive.
http://www.mrfunnel.com/index.html

My technique for handling fuel in plastic jerry jugs to be carried in the plane is as follows:

First you need absolutely tight, non-leaking jugs, even if they are laid on their sides, no fuel should seep out the filler or breather cap. The "Rubbermaid" brand of jugs is very good in this regard but I can't find them anymore. I have two of the 6 gallon models which will hold 6.5 gallons so 2 of them hold 13 gallons. Two of them gives you almost 2 more hours of flying. My jugs are dedicated to aviation use only, and get inside storage and special handling to avoid water contamination and damage. Perhaps a bit anal but I consider this to be pretty serious business.

Second, buy a 12" long by 3/4" dia. copper hot water heater connecter which is corrugated so that it can be bent easily by hand. Also buy about 18" of clear PVC 3/4" ID hose, a suitable hose clamp and some brass fine mesh fuel screen if you can find it. You will also need about 3 or 4 feet of 14 or 16 AWG copper wire and two alligator clips (one on each end). This is to bond your fueling hose to the plane before inserting it into your tank filler neck.

Make your fueling hose by placing the fuel screen over the copper connector and slide the PVC hose on over that. Then use your hose clamp to securely hold the PVC hose and fuel screen to the copper pipe.

To use, slide the open end of the PVC hose onto your jerry jug plastic pour spout. The poor spouts are tapered and hold the PVC hose securely without the need for a hose clamp. Again, the Rubbermaid poor spouts accept the 3/4" PVC hose perfectly. Now before inserting the copper pipe end of your fueling hose into the airplane filler neck, attach the alligator clip to the copper pipe on the one end then attach the other end of your wire with alligator clip to the airplane (away from the filler neck and gas vapors. I use the ADF antenna stanchion brackett). You have now bonded your fueling hose to the airplane before pouring a drop of gas. (Just like fueling at your FBO). Then insert the copper pipe end of the fueling hose into your tank filler neck and dump the gas in. All gas coming through the jug and fueling hose now is in contact with the copper pipe which is touching the side of your filler neck. So everything is bonded and no electrical potential exists for static electricity. And the little screen you placed in line just adds one more chance to catch any crud which may have entered the system.

I have been using this system for 5 years now and haven't blown up yet.

Bruce Christie, '53 170B, N3243A

One little tip. On the jugs is a vent. Open the vent after filling and capping the can and the somehow squeeze some air out of the can. I do this with my knee holding the can alongside the van bumper. Then tighten the vent. Do it again when you load the cans in the plane. At least for short trips it keeps the fumes and smell in the can.

Good tip,Dave!

Eric