wa4jr wrote:I just made a verbal deal with a fellow on a 1954 C-170B a couple of days ago. Not only my first C-170, but my first aircraft ever. I mailed off the Conditional Sales Contract to him today. Next on the list is the pre-purchase inspection and this is where I need help.
The A&P where the aircraft will be delivered seems quite responsible, but he is not a C-170 expert. What items on a C-170B should he pay close attention to when doing a pre-purchase inspection?
A few other questions regarding this aircraft have me wondering. The aircraft just had ACF-50 applied at last annual. The A&P I talked to says that he does not really like the stuff, as it just covers up the corrosion that may already be there and does nothing to "kill" it. Any thoughts or suggestions?
This C-170B does not have a suction gage. I thought a suction gage was standard on the 170? Is the aircraft illegal without one?
The owner says he has been adding Marvel Mystery Oil at the rate of 4oz per 10 gallons of fuel. Is this practice good or bad? The books show no valve problems at all with over 800 SMOH and compression values are good.
Any help you nice folks can provide will be greatly appreciated. With a bit of luck and a month or so of time, I will be the proud new owner of a C-170 and finally be able to wave goodbye to the commercial airlines for my family's travel! WOOPEEEE!

If your mechanic is experienced on Cessna 172's (especially Continental powered ones) he should be comfortable inspecting a 170B.
Pay extra attention to the following:
Rudder circuit cables between the rudder and the aft bulkhead (inside the tail cone.) These are really hard to get to and so are highly-neglected, and frequently chafed/broken/corroded.
Front spar carry-through and internal wing attach blocks. (These blocks are inside the spar carry-through and the bolt that holds the wing to the fuselage pass through this block.) These suffer from 50 years of age in a high water collection spot.
Front/rear doorposts. These are the main strength of the cabin/fuselage and hard landings and high-speed flap abuse will deform them. The front doorposts are often overlooked by tricycle-gear mechanics, but that is where landing shock-loads are absorbed by the 170.
ACF-50 is a good corrosion treatment, and will slow down corrosion already there, but remember, someone was worried about corrosion for some reason. Either because it's already there (always bad) or for preventative purposes (which is OK). Look at the upper cabin above the headliner, especially toward the rear for inside corrosion. Look at wing and tail attach bolts/fittings. Avoid former seaplanes unless they've been totally restored from the "ground up" as automotive collectors say.
Damage histories don't mean a thing in these airplanes as long as it's been properly repaired. Expect wingtip damage histories from ground-loops. Just make sure it's been properly fixed.
I always suggest that the best pre-purchase inspection is an annual inspection performed according to FAA and Mfr's forms. This should insure that the airplane you're about to buy meets the legal airworthiness standards. (Would you want to buy any airplane that didn't?) Remember, you don't have to fix what your inspector finds,...you just want to know about it before it's yours. If, after seeing the inspector's defect-list, you still wish to own the thing, at least you'll be properly informed. (You'll also have a legal standard to base any future surprises or claims upon.) Then if you go through with the deal, you can tell your mechanic to proceed with completing the inspection for an annual sign-off. (And if you reject the airplane, he will make a log entry that it was inspected in accordance with the inspection forms and a list of discrepancies provided the owner.) You're both inclined to deal honorably with each other. An annual inspection only (no repairs) should cost you only a couple hundred dollars and might save you thousands.